{"id":112,"date":"2022-08-05T15:26:10","date_gmt":"2022-08-05T12:26:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/C:\/Program%20Files\/Git\/bmw-zf-gs6-53dz-kaigukasti-lahti-votmine\/"},"modified":"2026-10-24T00:53:50","modified_gmt":"2026-10-23T21:53:50","slug":"bmw-zf-gs6-53dz-kaigukasti-lahti-votmine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/en\/bmw-zf-gs6-53dz-kaigukasti-lahti-votmine\/","title":{"rendered":"How to disassembly BMW ZF GS6-53DZ gearbox"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Opening up a manual gearbox is always a fairly scary job, especially when there is no information about spare parts or how to take it apart. A year ago I was searching the internet because, for a project, I needed to separate the bellhousing from the gearbox in a way that would let me put it back together later. Some pressed it apart with a big HEB beam and M20 threaded rod, others simply went at it with a hammer \u2014 they all got the box open, but the methods were rather brutal and nobody showed how to put it back together, neither in writing nor on video, so I was on my own. Feeling my way in the dark I learned quite a lot, and even managed to get some information out of the ZF factory, which I'm about to share with you here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/20200929_170132-1-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-0\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In this post I'll describe how to take it apart as painlessly as possible. To start, here is a list of tools you may need for the job:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\" type=\"1\"><li>Torx 30, 45 &amp; 50<\/li><li>1\/2\" ratchet<\/li><li>Extension for 1\/2\" ratchet<\/li><li>Torque wrench (20 Nm)<\/li><li>Straight nose lock ring pliers<\/li><li>17 or 18 mm socket (my memory fails me here)<\/li><li>Heat gun<\/li><li>Angle grinder<\/li><li>Infrared thermometer<\/li><li>Shaft seal remover, for convenience<\/li><li>Flat-head screwdriver<\/li><li>Ideally, tools to build a puller \u2014 but if you have the patience, in theory the bellhousing can also be removed by heating the bearings and tapping on the shaft. (The bearing inner ring ideally wants about 110 \u00b0C before things start to move.)<\/li><\/ol>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I'm listing the spare parts in English, as that makes them easier to find and order:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\" type=\"1\"><li>Sealing cap with original ZF spare number 0501 317 873* as shown on Diagram No.1 with number 01.130 (price aprox 8 euros)<\/li><li>Shaft seal with original ZF spare number 0750 111 403* as shown on Diagram No.1 with number 01.030 (price aprox 10 euros)<\/li><li>Ang. Cont. Bearing with original spare number 0735 340 180* as shown on Diagram No.1 with number 01.100 (price aprox 60 euros)<\/li><li>Ball bearing with NTN code 6308X35CS26 (you can find this roller bearing from any decent bearing dealership for 25 euros aprox. On diagram marked as 01.070.)<\/li><li>Some liquid gasket (Victor Reinz is one of the best out there with price tag aprox 10 euros)<\/li><li>Oil BMW MTF-LT-2 1.6 liters.<\/li><\/ol>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Diagram-No.1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-0\"\/><figcaption>List of spares:<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">NOTE!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Diagram No.1<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Let's get started! Like any proper gearbox, this one should have oil in it, so begin by removing filler plug 01.230 together with the drain plug at the bottom. Drain the oil into a clean container \u2014 any metal shavings can give an early idea of the gearbox's condition. Remove bolt 01.050 with guide sleeve 01.040. Seals 01.030 &amp; 01.130 will definitely be destroyed during disassembly, so you can simply punch holes in them with a screwdriver, or drill them. The holes can then be used as pulling points for a seal puller.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">With the seals removed you can reach the retaining rings and the lower shaft bolt, which also has to come out before going further.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Before you start prying the housing off, a few more bolts etc. need to be removed:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/20211022_091652-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-0\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/20211022_091545-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-0\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/fork-play-1024x647.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-0\"\/><figcaption>Diagram No.2<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">06.060 and 06.480 come out easily (a spring with a detent pin comes out from under 480) \u2014 just screw them out and that's it. Caps 06.830 and 06.780 are a different story, and without cleaning you probably can't even see what's going on there, so start with that \u2014 brake cleaner does the job. After cleaning, small retaining rings sitting in the gearbox casing come into view \u2014 with enough luck the cap pops out by itself under spring pressure once they are removed. If you're not that lucky, help it along with two small screwdrivers until the cap starts to move. Cap removed, take out the springs as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Now the real fun begins! As mentioned earlier, this gearbox can be pressed apart either with brute force or by heating the right parts. In my case I built a jig that pushes on both the upper and the lower shaft at the same time, as shown in Diagram No.3. Pushing on only one of the two shafts makes the casing tilt, and we don't want that. When building the jig, keep in mind that both bearings sit with an interference fit, so the pressing forces get quite large.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/forces.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-0\"\/><figcaption>Diagram No.2<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/puller-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-0\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The bolts press directly on the shaft ends, so put a washer in between to avoid mechanical damage!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If you have patience to spare and no rush, you can also try heating. Metal has the handy habit of expanding when heated, and you can use that here. The idea is to heat both bearings until the inner ring reaches at most 120 \u00b0C, so it expands enough to release the shaft. If you're fitting new bearings anyway you can go above that temperature, but not by much, as the heat can start to affect other parts of the gearbox \u2014 if the bearing's plastic cage or grease starts to melt out, back off the heat. It's also important to direct the heat straight at the bearing inner ring and not let it wander elsewhere. Cooling the shaft at the same time with freeze spray or a wet rag can help too. This is where a laser thermometer to monitor the inner ring temperature comes in handy. Once the right temperature is reached, set the gearbox down and hit the shaft end with a hammer through a wooden block while supporting the housing with your legs. With enough luck the gearbox comes apart this way too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">So, like mentioned previously there are two ways to split this casing. If you are planning to build a puller keep in mind that it have to be quite bulky to keep up with forces. Both input &amp; aux shaft are fixed to shaft via tolerance fitting so in normal condition there is no way you can just pull it off from shaft. Same thing goes with clearance between housing and bearing. Because there is two shafts you have to use 2 pushing points on puller to equalize the forces as indicated on diagram No.3!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/20210903_135424-576x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-0\"\/><figcaption>Diagram No.3<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/bearing-tapping-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-0\"\/><figcaption>There are some topic's out there where guys just pull it off brutally via input shaft but I strongly advice you not to do it to avoid any possible damage to the housing, bearings &amp; and list goes on. That's the puller what I used, beams where bolted to the housing and 2 bolts in center where use to push on shafts:<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Once you've done everything you needed to do, the gearbox has to go back together. Brace yourself \u2014 in my opinion putting this gearbox together is even worse than taking it apart. For everything to work out, it all has to be assembled in a specific order.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/bearing-install1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-0\"\/><figcaption>Always protect the shaft ends by adding washer or something similar under the bolt tip!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As shown in Diagram No.5, start by fitting bearing 01.070 into the housing. The bearing should go into its seat with light tapping, after which it is locked in place with a special plate and bolts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Next, take one of the inner ring halves of bearing 01.100, heat it to 120 \u00b0C, oil the shaft and slide the ring onto the shaft as shown in Picture No.5.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">From the other side of the housing, tap bearing 01.100 into place \u2014 it should go into its seat as easily as 01.070. With the bearing in place, take out the other half of the inner ring \u2014 it goes in once the housing is back on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Before fitting the housing, it's worth cleaning the drain plug and the area around it inside the gearbox. I'd also recommend cleaning out the inside of the gearbox itself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Putting the housing back on is, in my opinion, one of the hardest moments of the whole process. The gear selector linkage has to be in the right position, with its end running into the shaft seat inside the housing \u2014 in my case I had to take the gearbox apart twice more because the selector shaft was fussy and always went where it shouldn't. Heating also helps when refitting the housing, but for that you'd need a bigger oven to bring the whole thing to 120 \u00b0C (110 \u00b0C is probably enough). If you have a bigger press at hand, that should in theory do the job too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">When refitting the housing, don't forget to clean the flange faces and apply engine silicone so the oil stays inside. As you fit the housing, make sure the shaft ends shown in Diagram No.6 sit in their seats. According to the diagram, the pin on the end of bracket 06.170 has to line up with the seat on fork 06.050. The same goes for the lever on shaft 06.300.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kasutamu.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/fork-fit-1024x647.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-0\"\/><figcaption>Diagram No.6<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As shown in diagram No.5 install bearing 01.070 by tapping it in to the casing. Secure it on place using locking plate with bolts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">With the housing joined back to the casing, fit the missing half of the 01.100 bearing inner ring \u2014 you can use the bolt on the shaft end to press it into place. Everything else goes back together in the reverse order of disassembly. Before filling with oil, refit the drain plug \u2014 its tightening torque is 35 Nm. Oil in, filler plug on, and you're done!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph translation-block\">Many thanks to everyone who took the time to read this! The pictures are from the ZF spare parts catalogue, which I can share if needed. Just send an email to <a href=\"mailto:kasutamucustoms@gmail.com\">kasutamucustoms@gmail.com<\/a> and I&#039;ll try to reply as quickly as possible.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>So, here you are, looking for answers for your questions! I was on the same lane one year ago, trying to figure out how\u2026<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":114,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-112","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-diy"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Bmw zf gs6-53dz k\u00e4igukasti lahti v\u00f5tmine \u2013 Kasutamu Customs<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Samm-sammuline juhend BMW ZF GS6-53DZ k\u00e4igukasti lahti v\u00f5tmiseks ja kokkupanekuks: t\u00f6\u00f6riistad, varuosade numbrid ja laagrite vahetus.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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